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19 April 2003
The Zuni Cafe Cookbook
Today's reading recommendation is first and foremost a marvelous cookbook: The Zuni Cafe Cookbook by Judy Rogers. My standard for "marvelous" is that the cookbook has to be a joy to read and has to have great recipes. This one fits the bill. Whether or not you've dined at the Zuni Cafe in San Francisco, you'll soon find that Judy Rogers' recipes--and general advice--inspire lots of menu-making, and I suspect there are several recipes that will become standards in our house.
Although I'll post other cookbook recommendations between now and the 23rd, what The Zuni Cafe Cookbook has in common with some of my other favorites is great supporting material which offers an insight into the author's approach to food, food preparation, and dining. The introductory pieces in this cookbook are particularly worth reading more than once: the Introduction describes an almost idyllic opportunity to learn about cooking as a guest of the Troisgros family in Roanne, and how her approach evolved--and continues to evolve--at Zuni Cafe. The second introductory section is also useful and worth rereading: "What To Think About Before You Start, And While You Are Cooking." Good advice on finding the right flavor balance, using the right tools--the little (and not so little) things that make the end result even better.