talbotlucas.org: a word to the wise is sufficient

It seems fitting that we spent today, the 34th anniversary of the opening of Chez Panisse, by attending a Slow Food tour of the Hollywood Farmers' Market, followed by several hours of chopping, rolling, sauteeing, and oohing and ahhing with my fellow snails at Angeli Caffe.

Chez Panisse's celebratory menu will feature a grande bouillabaisse and will benefit the Chez Panisse Foundation. Because of the generosity of Kermit Lynch, who is underwriting the entire event, the price of the dinner ($250 per person) will benefit the Foundation. That's one hell of a birthday present.

Our menu, prepared almost entirely with ingredients from the market earlier that morning, included gazpacho garnished with croutons and avocado; gnochetti di ricotta with heirloom tomato sauce; salad of greens with almonds, ricotta salata and anchovy-mustard vinaigrette; zucchini flowers; sauteed peppers with garlic; sauteed squash with red wine vinegar, mint, and garlic sauce; sliced heirloom tomatoes with salt; and baked figs with vanilla ice cream and huckleberry compote. A feast!

The ten of us were able to contribute to the preparation of each part of the meal, compare notes about our favorite farmers' markets and resources, and were rewarded by a lovely day and many tips from Evan Kleiman (chef, owner of Angeli, Slow Food's governor of southern California, and the host of KCRW's radio show, Good Food, which is now available as a Podcast), from Kathy, her right hand at Angeli, and from Mor, Evan's niece, who is a talented young pastry chef in her own right.

Nothing was fussy. Everything was spectacular. And that's why it was a great activity for any day, really, but especially as a salut! and bon anniversaire to Chez Panisse.

We brought home the most amazing Kyoho grapes--HUGE JUICY PURPLE MONSTERS. We had a taste and couldn't resist them. Really. We had to turn around a purchase a bunch because they were unbelievably....grapey. Seascape strawberries from Harry's (the gaviotas that were there at the opening of the market were gone, completely sold out, only one hour later). Chanterelle mushrooms--gorgeous and so fragrant. We were talking with David West, the purveyor, about recent attempts by L.A. county authorities to regulate (in a clumsy and ill-conceived way) the selling of mushrooms, and I couldn't leave without buying some chanterelles for our own dinner. They called to me. Ruby carrots. Golden beets. Sweet (but not too sugary) cherry tomatoes. (We should have bought some of the variety that's come to be known as Evan's--named after Evan Kleiman--but that will be next week's errand. They are incredible, and the story behind them is fascinating, but more on them, including photos, when we have them in hand.) A variety of lettuces from Kenter Farms, including a tat soi that revealed a spectrum of tastes in a single leaf. And avocados, after we all sighed while tasting the samples the vendor had offered.

It was a good day.